On Monday, I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile. This is the village from which hikers enter the famous Torres del Paine. The visit to this national park in the climax of my stay in South-America, this is the reason I choose to come to Argentina and Chile (some of you may think of other reasons, but it isn't...all demons are banished ;). As soon as Jenny, Tally, Samara and I arrived, we went to the Erretic Rock - a hostel, to attend an information session about the park. I already knew, hikes can chose between the W-route of 4 or 5 days or the Q of 8 days. We came here to do the W, as this is the most beautiful part of the park. But I want to return to hike the Q. We booked and paid (cash - all is in cash) the refugios in advance at an agency on the day we arrived in Puerto Natales, but you can book it online weeks in advance.
So after a long day of sitting on the bus, booking the transfer to the park, the refugios and food in the park, buying cerealbars and chocolate...I packed my backpack with one pair of dry clothes, my sleeping back, a bottle of water, pain killers for my achilles and my camera. I even slept bad that night, I was so excited!
The shuttle picked us up at the hostel and after a two drive, we arrived at the administration of the park. It is not a cheap trip, a full bord night (dinner + bed + shower + breakfast + lunchbox) in a refugio costs around 50 euro, the shuttle to the back around 22 euro and the entrance 23 euro. At the administration, each visitor has to fill out a paper with his personal details and sign the rules. I assume this park is holy for Chili ;) But I understand why!!! It is SO beautiful!!! The second hours of the journey on the bus is already through the park and I saw a lot of Guanacos, these lamas look a bit silly (dwaas) standing still in the grass.
So it was Tuesday, day one in Torres del Paine and we started our hike around 11:00 at Refugio los Torres. The hike to refugio Chileno took 2 hours uphill, ending in a narrow and deep valley of Rio Ascencio. We dropped our big backpacks at the refugio and we up to los Torres, another 2 hours uphill. It is amasing how the scenery changes in only 2 hours from green forest in a black stoned valley into a white stoned summit with glaciers and a lake! But that how it is in the mountains, behind every curve is another view and behind every hill is another one ;)
I ended the day with a hot shower and a healty meal and a glass of red wine.
Day two was easy. We left the valley and hiked all day along Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Los Cuevos. It was a very sunny day, no wind...just perfect for a lunch a the lake enjoying the view and the sun. This was a short day, so we arrived in the early afternoon at the refugio. A good reason to drink a pisco sour, the perfect drink on a sunny day as this one. As the refugio was fully booked, we rented a tent to sleep at this spot. That was the worse night ever in my life. I left my termarest in the city, as the agency told me there would be a matras in the tent. And yes, there was...of only 2 mm! I sweared that night, that I did not bring my termarest! ( And in the meantime I sent this termarest home together with other camp material, as I will not be camping anymore)
The tent we rented stood downhill on a rock...my hips were brused and I hardly slept...and the third day would be the heaviest one! Verdoeme toch!
Despite the lack of sleep, I did the walk of 9 hours on day three. The breakfast in these refugios start with porridge (havermoutpap), followed by scrambled eggs and toasted bread. MMMM In this refugio we could see the reflexion of the rising sun on the summits of Los Cuevos.
The first hour of the hike kept one going next to the lake. During the night a heavy wind came up and it was still there. We finally knew what the guy of Erretic Rock meant with "it is possible you have to lie down for a heavy squall (windstoot)". The wind started on the lake and rolled through the trees, so I could here it coming. I have posted a picture of the wind on the lake...it was a mystic view!
The hike went to the Valle del Francés, a wide valley between high summits and the glacier Cerro Paine Grande. The wind was so strong in the valley, we sat behind rocks to have lunch on the first viewpoint. Here I could see down the valley to the lake at one side and the summits on the other side. Amasing view!
As the route is a W, we had to come down again to reach the next refugio. It took us through the burned part of the park. It is really a pity. No one is aloud to have a fire in the park and still some idi(j)ood did and burned the trees! In this part, sunglasses helped to protect my eyes from the ashed, as the wind was still heavy. Here I had to go on my knees as the squalls were so strong.
So the third night we spent in the biggest refugio on the W, at the port of the park so food can be delivered easily...but this was the worse place to eat! Okay, it was the end of the season, but we paid for full board, not for the dinner again on a sandwich for lunch. The beds were good though. ;)
The refugio is in the middle of the burned area, but was protected. It is safe to drink water from streams in the park...but in this area you better not drink it.
The forth and fifth day, we could have done in one day. But it rained all morning on the fouth that I am glad we closed this trip in the sun on the fifth day with two handsome FLEMISH guys! haha
This hike went up to Refugio Grey, along Lago Grey to glacier Grey. This refugio was the most cosy one and as we bombed into these two guys, we drank red wine untill late in the evening. I kind of liked the Chilean owner of the refugio, the first handsome guy in this country! No offense, but Argentine men are very handsome and in Chili...only the Europeans are cute! :)))
So the last day, we hiked down to refugio Paine Grande again to take the boat to the entrance. The view on the boat was magnificant, but I did not have my camera with me...so I MUST come back.
I enjoyed Torres del Paine because of its nature: the sounds of babbling water, exotic birds, the wind in the trees, cracking of the ice...and I also enjoyed the moments shared with other hikers.
19 maart 2012
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - Argentina
El Calafate
I arrived on a sunny day in el Calafate and booked immediatly a minitrekking on the glacier Perito Moreno. I was still feeling a bit cold and sick, so I took a good rest after a pizza in the sun. The next morning I had to get up very early, the bus of Hielo y Aventura would pick me up at 7:30. After 2 hours I arrived at the viewpoint at the north side of the glacier. Meanwhile I met Jenny from Holand on the bus and because of her I met Tally a few moments later at the viewpoint. We enjoyed the magnificant view of the massive glacier. While standing there, I heard the ice cracking as if there was a war inside the glacier! And if a part of the ice falls, it sounds like an airplane high in the sky. After taking photos of the incredible view the bus took us to the small port to cross the Argentine Lake, during this boat trip we had a view on the southern side of the glacier. After a lunch with a view on the lake, the mountains and the glacier, we went for a hike on the ice. Walking on ice with crampons asks a lot of energy, but it was worth the hike. I had a total different view of the glacier, in the beginning it felt scary to walk down on the ice, but the crampons make it easier. Soon I was hiking 'normal'! At the end of the day, we received a wiskey on the Perito Moreno Rocks :) Nice.
In the evening Tally, Jenny and I went out for dinner and decided to go to El Chaltén together. We booked the bus for the next morning.
El Chaltén
A 3 hours drive in a minibus brought us in the town with the most beautiful scenary I have seen. The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the north of the park rices up from kilometers before arriving the town. The town is the last one before crossing the border to Chile. You can take a bus to a boat in order to walk to the O'higgens lake in Chile, where you catch a ferry to Villa O'Higgens. I planned to do so, but due to a roadblock on the Carretera Austral no fuel nor food reaches that area. So I have to come back to Patagonia in a few years. ;)
So El Chaltén is so small that the internet depends on the amount of clouds and the mobile phone does work at all! You can find restaurants, hiking shop and a supermarket...the rest you get in El Calafate. The hostel Patagonia was very clean and cosy. All people staying in this town come here to hike, no party animals in this place! Although I enjoyed drinking beer at the microbrewery...
One of the hikes goes to the Fitz Roy and the nicest thing about this town is that you start your hike at your hostel. The hike goes up hill in a forest to arrive in a beautiful valley with delicious water! Since I tasted the water here I deslike the bottled water :)))
After enjoying a lunch in this valley surrounded by summits, the heavy part of the hike starts: 2 hours going steep upwards. The view was fantastic! But it was a long day of 9 hours hiking. Now I know why there is a camping in the valley... haha This was the viewpoint where you see the Fitz Roy summit with glaciers and three lakes.
I arrived on a sunny day in el Calafate and booked immediatly a minitrekking on the glacier Perito Moreno. I was still feeling a bit cold and sick, so I took a good rest after a pizza in the sun. The next morning I had to get up very early, the bus of Hielo y Aventura would pick me up at 7:30. After 2 hours I arrived at the viewpoint at the north side of the glacier. Meanwhile I met Jenny from Holand on the bus and because of her I met Tally a few moments later at the viewpoint. We enjoyed the magnificant view of the massive glacier. While standing there, I heard the ice cracking as if there was a war inside the glacier! And if a part of the ice falls, it sounds like an airplane high in the sky. After taking photos of the incredible view the bus took us to the small port to cross the Argentine Lake, during this boat trip we had a view on the southern side of the glacier. After a lunch with a view on the lake, the mountains and the glacier, we went for a hike on the ice. Walking on ice with crampons asks a lot of energy, but it was worth the hike. I had a total different view of the glacier, in the beginning it felt scary to walk down on the ice, but the crampons make it easier. Soon I was hiking 'normal'! At the end of the day, we received a wiskey on the Perito Moreno Rocks :) Nice.
In the evening Tally, Jenny and I went out for dinner and decided to go to El Chaltén together. We booked the bus for the next morning.
El Chaltén
A 3 hours drive in a minibus brought us in the town with the most beautiful scenary I have seen. The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the north of the park rices up from kilometers before arriving the town. The town is the last one before crossing the border to Chile. You can take a bus to a boat in order to walk to the O'higgens lake in Chile, where you catch a ferry to Villa O'Higgens. I planned to do so, but due to a roadblock on the Carretera Austral no fuel nor food reaches that area. So I have to come back to Patagonia in a few years. ;)
So El Chaltén is so small that the internet depends on the amount of clouds and the mobile phone does work at all! You can find restaurants, hiking shop and a supermarket...the rest you get in El Calafate. The hostel Patagonia was very clean and cosy. All people staying in this town come here to hike, no party animals in this place! Although I enjoyed drinking beer at the microbrewery...
One of the hikes goes to the Fitz Roy and the nicest thing about this town is that you start your hike at your hostel. The hike goes up hill in a forest to arrive in a beautiful valley with delicious water! Since I tasted the water here I deslike the bottled water :)))
After enjoying a lunch in this valley surrounded by summits, the heavy part of the hike starts: 2 hours going steep upwards. The view was fantastic! But it was a long day of 9 hours hiking. Now I know why there is a camping in the valley... haha This was the viewpoint where you see the Fitz Roy summit with glaciers and three lakes.
4 maart 2012
El Bolsón
After 3 days of sick in bed in my favorite hostel La Bolsa in Bariloche, I arrived in El Bolsón. I heard that this was a hippie town, so I had to stop here for sure. And yes, it is. I would have fit here perfectly if I still had my asymmetric haircut. :)
I saw a demonstration against the pollution of Patagonia´s nature by internation companies, who mine minerals in this area.
I found a cosy hostel called La casa del arbol, very close to the center. People here are very friendly. I sleep in the closet of Narnia (movie), which is the room in a closet for beds without sheets - read economic.
On the first morning I left early to take the bus of 8:30 to go to Cajon del Azul, which is a ravine on the Rio Azul...and this river is really blue. The bus looked like an old yellow American school bus, so funny. The journey took 45 minutes of which most of the part was on paved road...wiggle wiggle...
The bus dropped me at Warton, a place in the middle of a forest.
I started a 3 hours hike, going up and down next to the Rio Azul. I had to cross wooden bridges, very mobile and with many broken planks...as in the Indiana Jones movie! At a certain point I had to climb a ladder at each sides of a big rock hanging over the river (Escaleras). The view during this hike was again amazing, between the grey summits, I could see some gletsjers. Cool.
At the Cajon del Azul, the smallest ravine I ever saw, I crossed again a tricky bridge. There is a refugio close to this place, so I went up to have a hot meal. The refugio was actually a farm with horses, sheep and their own kitchen garden. It was situated in a small vally between two high mountain chains...and this farm was the only trace of human intervention on this valley...BEAUTIFUL!
An old man opened the wooden door and asked me if I wanted the or mate: mate of course!
The refugio was a bit dark, but cosy with sheep on the trunks used as chairs. I ordered half a pizza and enjoyed the break with mate. The pizza was seasoned with herbs of their garden. After my meal I took the same path back. I regret I did not take more days for this area, because from this refugio hikes go futher into the mountains. There are enough refugios on the way to make it a three day trip.
Just before I went up the last uphill to the bus stop, I crossed the final wooden bridge and got surrounded by chickens and turkeys, one turkey was really big and came straight to me. It scared me, so I kind of run away from it. Stupid I know, but this animal was way to cheeky. The animals were from the small bar at the riverside. I stopped there to eat one of my sandwiches and the chickens almost ate out of my hand...here chickens, birds, dogs...they all want your food!
On the second day, I wanted to visit Lago Puelo, but it was raining too hard, so I stayed in town, went to the feria and read my book. The next day, I will be on my way to El Calafate.
I saw a demonstration against the pollution of Patagonia´s nature by internation companies, who mine minerals in this area.
I found a cosy hostel called La casa del arbol, very close to the center. People here are very friendly. I sleep in the closet of Narnia (movie), which is the room in a closet for beds without sheets - read economic.
On the first morning I left early to take the bus of 8:30 to go to Cajon del Azul, which is a ravine on the Rio Azul...and this river is really blue. The bus looked like an old yellow American school bus, so funny. The journey took 45 minutes of which most of the part was on paved road...wiggle wiggle...
The bus dropped me at Warton, a place in the middle of a forest.
I started a 3 hours hike, going up and down next to the Rio Azul. I had to cross wooden bridges, very mobile and with many broken planks...as in the Indiana Jones movie! At a certain point I had to climb a ladder at each sides of a big rock hanging over the river (Escaleras). The view during this hike was again amazing, between the grey summits, I could see some gletsjers. Cool.
At the Cajon del Azul, the smallest ravine I ever saw, I crossed again a tricky bridge. There is a refugio close to this place, so I went up to have a hot meal. The refugio was actually a farm with horses, sheep and their own kitchen garden. It was situated in a small vally between two high mountain chains...and this farm was the only trace of human intervention on this valley...BEAUTIFUL!
An old man opened the wooden door and asked me if I wanted the or mate: mate of course!
The refugio was a bit dark, but cosy with sheep on the trunks used as chairs. I ordered half a pizza and enjoyed the break with mate. The pizza was seasoned with herbs of their garden. After my meal I took the same path back. I regret I did not take more days for this area, because from this refugio hikes go futher into the mountains. There are enough refugios on the way to make it a three day trip.
Just before I went up the last uphill to the bus stop, I crossed the final wooden bridge and got surrounded by chickens and turkeys, one turkey was really big and came straight to me. It scared me, so I kind of run away from it. Stupid I know, but this animal was way to cheeky. The animals were from the small bar at the riverside. I stopped there to eat one of my sandwiches and the chickens almost ate out of my hand...here chickens, birds, dogs...they all want your food!
On the second day, I wanted to visit Lago Puelo, but it was raining too hard, so I stayed in town, went to the feria and read my book. The next day, I will be on my way to El Calafate.
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