I have been to Pucón before, during my trip through the Lake District in Chile, but at that time the weather was rainy, so I could not see vulcano Villarica. But this time I saw the vulcano from one hour away, as the sky was blue and the sun made it warm for this time of the year.
The town was more quite than one month ago, which is not normal although it is already automn.
In Pucón I have the advantage to have stay at the house of a Flemish friend called David, who lives here with his Chilean family. Handy to find out more about the Chilean habits and politics.
The day after my arrival, we bumped into Sam and Gianni, my friends with whom I have spent time in Mendoza and a few days in Bariloche. That evening, we all enjoyed a Chilean asado at Davids place with funny pictures as result. The next day we did some sightseeing to Playa Blanca and discovered the favorite place to eat: Club 77.
Chili has a lot of National Parks, so on Monday I took the minibus to Parque Huerquehue, which gives a beautiful view on the Vulcano and at the top you can admire the typical Araucania tree.
The weather was great, sunny, a blue sky and a little bit of wind. The hiking path went 600 m up to 3 lakes surrounded by the local trees and on the way down I stopped at 2 waterfalls. I will miss the waterfalls, the mountains and the silence when I am back in flat Belgium, that is for sure.
I tried to hike up on the vulcano with David, as he is working here as a guide. But my achilles protested, even with pain killers, I could feel the pain. So I decided to stop, as 1400 m steep up the hill would hurt my achilles to bad. But it made me feel angry, I could not see the view of the valley from 2800m high and I could not experience the trekking to the crater and the sliding down in the snow/ice.
So I was brought to Pucòn and I went to the beach to relax and to enjoy the sun.
To relax even more the next day, I took a minibus to Los Pozonos, a place with natural hot spring...oh yeah. The place was in a small valley next to a river. The water in the pools is hot because of the hot stones due to the fact that this is a vulcano area. When entering Pucón, signs inform you that you arrive in a dangerous area. :) And I can confirm, as one of the vulcanoes in the area has yellow alert, which is the last alarm before erruption. And the earthquake in Talca, we felt in Pucón. First I thought I was still drunk from the night before, as my chair was shaking...
Chili is the country of vulcanoes, earthquakes, waterfalls and white water and earthquakes are a part of it!
30 maart 2012
24 maart 2012
Navimag from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt
The Navimag is a cargo ship that takes passengers as well. Initially I wanted to cross the south of Chile by the Carretera Austral, but due to blockades I had to find an alternative way to get to the middle of Chile and I did not want to cross Argentina again. So I chose to take the Navimag, a journey that takes four nights and three days. The full board price was quite ok, as I would spent the same amount in a hostel and going out for dinner. At the moment I booked the boat, I did not yet realize I booked a kind of fjord cruise ;).
So on Monday evening, after a happy hour of Pisco Sour, we embarked to the ship. We had to cross the cargo section and we realized that the ship was taking trailers with cows.
I found my bed in a very small room with four bedEars and four lockers...we had to take turns to unpack :)
I went straight to bed, as I was getting a cold AGAIN. The ship would leave Puerto Natales at 6 in the morning and oh yeah I noticed. The cows were complaining during the moment of departure.
Early in the moning, a voice through a microphone woke me up for breakfast. The food on this ship was good and a lot. In the moning there were cereals, bread with cheese and ham, porridge or scrambled eggs, thee, coffee...nice. And we had warm meals at noon AND as dinner.
During this trip, I spent most of the time on the deck to see sea lions, birds, dolphins and even whales. This is probably the only ship on which each passenger can enter the bridge and have a chat with the captain. So from this place we saw most of the animals. I saw a few times small dolphins, with white and grey colors, I saw many small sea lions of which I have pictures. I saw one time a whale only by its breathing and the second time I saw two whals far from the boat and they looked like a black line in the water. But hey I saw them!
The hount to see these whales become hilarious, as someone would sceam whale and then I seemed to be a rock...so we called the guy Rocked Man. haha I hung out with Ginger, Henny, Marian and Jenny...all single women. We had a name for all the guys on the ship and we even chose a mister handsome. I guess the whale haunting changes our mooths into men haunting ;)
Most of the time we had dry and even sunny weather. First we crossed channels next to Torres del Paine and the Glaciers Park, an area where only 170 people live in a small port called Puerto Eden. The only way to get in this town is by the Navimag. And it rains almost every day in this area...fun place to live I guess.
After this place, we went into open sea...and I had to lay down for an hour to avoid vomitting, although the waves were not high at all. After this nap, I feld much better. The third day, the Navimag left the Pacific and sailed between Chile and Chiloe.
After that day on sea, I did not hear the cows anymore, only one or to when we arrived in Puerto Montt. We think a lot of them died at sea, as they had to stand in a cage as big as they were, so no room to lie down or to walk around. Imagine you get seasick in that circumstance? I feld really bad about the cows, even on the first evening...maybe I should be a vegi...but I LOVE meat! Difficult choice, I have to think about it.
As this journey would not be real without a Bingo night, we played bingo the last evening. This journey is really a must if you want to have a few days off. It is much more fun to travel by boat then by bus! We arrived during the night in Puerto Montt and we desembarked at 8 in the moning, so everyone went to the bus terminal. I had to say goodbye to everyone, as most of them were going to Chiloe and I to Pucon, as I had been in Chiloe and the rest of the Lake District.
So on Monday evening, after a happy hour of Pisco Sour, we embarked to the ship. We had to cross the cargo section and we realized that the ship was taking trailers with cows.
I found my bed in a very small room with four bedEars and four lockers...we had to take turns to unpack :)
I went straight to bed, as I was getting a cold AGAIN. The ship would leave Puerto Natales at 6 in the morning and oh yeah I noticed. The cows were complaining during the moment of departure.
Early in the moning, a voice through a microphone woke me up for breakfast. The food on this ship was good and a lot. In the moning there were cereals, bread with cheese and ham, porridge or scrambled eggs, thee, coffee...nice. And we had warm meals at noon AND as dinner.
During this trip, I spent most of the time on the deck to see sea lions, birds, dolphins and even whales. This is probably the only ship on which each passenger can enter the bridge and have a chat with the captain. So from this place we saw most of the animals. I saw a few times small dolphins, with white and grey colors, I saw many small sea lions of which I have pictures. I saw one time a whale only by its breathing and the second time I saw two whals far from the boat and they looked like a black line in the water. But hey I saw them!
The hount to see these whales become hilarious, as someone would sceam whale and then I seemed to be a rock...so we called the guy Rocked Man. haha I hung out with Ginger, Henny, Marian and Jenny...all single women. We had a name for all the guys on the ship and we even chose a mister handsome. I guess the whale haunting changes our mooths into men haunting ;)
Most of the time we had dry and even sunny weather. First we crossed channels next to Torres del Paine and the Glaciers Park, an area where only 170 people live in a small port called Puerto Eden. The only way to get in this town is by the Navimag. And it rains almost every day in this area...fun place to live I guess.
After this place, we went into open sea...and I had to lay down for an hour to avoid vomitting, although the waves were not high at all. After this nap, I feld much better. The third day, the Navimag left the Pacific and sailed between Chile and Chiloe.
After that day on sea, I did not hear the cows anymore, only one or to when we arrived in Puerto Montt. We think a lot of them died at sea, as they had to stand in a cage as big as they were, so no room to lie down or to walk around. Imagine you get seasick in that circumstance? I feld really bad about the cows, even on the first evening...maybe I should be a vegi...but I LOVE meat! Difficult choice, I have to think about it.
As this journey would not be real without a Bingo night, we played bingo the last evening. This journey is really a must if you want to have a few days off. It is much more fun to travel by boat then by bus! We arrived during the night in Puerto Montt and we desembarked at 8 in the moning, so everyone went to the bus terminal. I had to say goodbye to everyone, as most of them were going to Chiloe and I to Pucon, as I had been in Chiloe and the rest of the Lake District.
19 maart 2012
Torres del Paine - Chile
On Monday, I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile. This is the village from which hikers enter the famous Torres del Paine. The visit to this national park in the climax of my stay in South-America, this is the reason I choose to come to Argentina and Chile (some of you may think of other reasons, but it isn't...all demons are banished ;). As soon as Jenny, Tally, Samara and I arrived, we went to the Erretic Rock - a hostel, to attend an information session about the park. I already knew, hikes can chose between the W-route of 4 or 5 days or the Q of 8 days. We came here to do the W, as this is the most beautiful part of the park. But I want to return to hike the Q. We booked and paid (cash - all is in cash) the refugios in advance at an agency on the day we arrived in Puerto Natales, but you can book it online weeks in advance.
So after a long day of sitting on the bus, booking the transfer to the park, the refugios and food in the park, buying cerealbars and chocolate...I packed my backpack with one pair of dry clothes, my sleeping back, a bottle of water, pain killers for my achilles and my camera. I even slept bad that night, I was so excited!
The shuttle picked us up at the hostel and after a two drive, we arrived at the administration of the park. It is not a cheap trip, a full bord night (dinner + bed + shower + breakfast + lunchbox) in a refugio costs around 50 euro, the shuttle to the back around 22 euro and the entrance 23 euro. At the administration, each visitor has to fill out a paper with his personal details and sign the rules. I assume this park is holy for Chili ;) But I understand why!!! It is SO beautiful!!! The second hours of the journey on the bus is already through the park and I saw a lot of Guanacos, these lamas look a bit silly (dwaas) standing still in the grass.
So it was Tuesday, day one in Torres del Paine and we started our hike around 11:00 at Refugio los Torres. The hike to refugio Chileno took 2 hours uphill, ending in a narrow and deep valley of Rio Ascencio. We dropped our big backpacks at the refugio and we up to los Torres, another 2 hours uphill. It is amasing how the scenery changes in only 2 hours from green forest in a black stoned valley into a white stoned summit with glaciers and a lake! But that how it is in the mountains, behind every curve is another view and behind every hill is another one ;)
I ended the day with a hot shower and a healty meal and a glass of red wine.
Day two was easy. We left the valley and hiked all day along Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Los Cuevos. It was a very sunny day, no wind...just perfect for a lunch a the lake enjoying the view and the sun. This was a short day, so we arrived in the early afternoon at the refugio. A good reason to drink a pisco sour, the perfect drink on a sunny day as this one. As the refugio was fully booked, we rented a tent to sleep at this spot. That was the worse night ever in my life. I left my termarest in the city, as the agency told me there would be a matras in the tent. And yes, there was...of only 2 mm! I sweared that night, that I did not bring my termarest! ( And in the meantime I sent this termarest home together with other camp material, as I will not be camping anymore)
The tent we rented stood downhill on a rock...my hips were brused and I hardly slept...and the third day would be the heaviest one! Verdoeme toch!
Despite the lack of sleep, I did the walk of 9 hours on day three. The breakfast in these refugios start with porridge (havermoutpap), followed by scrambled eggs and toasted bread. MMMM In this refugio we could see the reflexion of the rising sun on the summits of Los Cuevos.
The first hour of the hike kept one going next to the lake. During the night a heavy wind came up and it was still there. We finally knew what the guy of Erretic Rock meant with "it is possible you have to lie down for a heavy squall (windstoot)". The wind started on the lake and rolled through the trees, so I could here it coming. I have posted a picture of the wind on the lake...it was a mystic view!
The hike went to the Valle del Francés, a wide valley between high summits and the glacier Cerro Paine Grande. The wind was so strong in the valley, we sat behind rocks to have lunch on the first viewpoint. Here I could see down the valley to the lake at one side and the summits on the other side. Amasing view!
As the route is a W, we had to come down again to reach the next refugio. It took us through the burned part of the park. It is really a pity. No one is aloud to have a fire in the park and still some idi(j)ood did and burned the trees! In this part, sunglasses helped to protect my eyes from the ashed, as the wind was still heavy. Here I had to go on my knees as the squalls were so strong.
So the third night we spent in the biggest refugio on the W, at the port of the park so food can be delivered easily...but this was the worse place to eat! Okay, it was the end of the season, but we paid for full board, not for the dinner again on a sandwich for lunch. The beds were good though. ;)
The refugio is in the middle of the burned area, but was protected. It is safe to drink water from streams in the park...but in this area you better not drink it.
The forth and fifth day, we could have done in one day. But it rained all morning on the fouth that I am glad we closed this trip in the sun on the fifth day with two handsome FLEMISH guys! haha
This hike went up to Refugio Grey, along Lago Grey to glacier Grey. This refugio was the most cosy one and as we bombed into these two guys, we drank red wine untill late in the evening. I kind of liked the Chilean owner of the refugio, the first handsome guy in this country! No offense, but Argentine men are very handsome and in Chili...only the Europeans are cute! :)))
So the last day, we hiked down to refugio Paine Grande again to take the boat to the entrance. The view on the boat was magnificant, but I did not have my camera with me...so I MUST come back.
I enjoyed Torres del Paine because of its nature: the sounds of babbling water, exotic birds, the wind in the trees, cracking of the ice...and I also enjoyed the moments shared with other hikers.
So after a long day of sitting on the bus, booking the transfer to the park, the refugios and food in the park, buying cerealbars and chocolate...I packed my backpack with one pair of dry clothes, my sleeping back, a bottle of water, pain killers for my achilles and my camera. I even slept bad that night, I was so excited!
The shuttle picked us up at the hostel and after a two drive, we arrived at the administration of the park. It is not a cheap trip, a full bord night (dinner + bed + shower + breakfast + lunchbox) in a refugio costs around 50 euro, the shuttle to the back around 22 euro and the entrance 23 euro. At the administration, each visitor has to fill out a paper with his personal details and sign the rules. I assume this park is holy for Chili ;) But I understand why!!! It is SO beautiful!!! The second hours of the journey on the bus is already through the park and I saw a lot of Guanacos, these lamas look a bit silly (dwaas) standing still in the grass.
So it was Tuesday, day one in Torres del Paine and we started our hike around 11:00 at Refugio los Torres. The hike to refugio Chileno took 2 hours uphill, ending in a narrow and deep valley of Rio Ascencio. We dropped our big backpacks at the refugio and we up to los Torres, another 2 hours uphill. It is amasing how the scenery changes in only 2 hours from green forest in a black stoned valley into a white stoned summit with glaciers and a lake! But that how it is in the mountains, behind every curve is another view and behind every hill is another one ;)
I ended the day with a hot shower and a healty meal and a glass of red wine.
Day two was easy. We left the valley and hiked all day along Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Los Cuevos. It was a very sunny day, no wind...just perfect for a lunch a the lake enjoying the view and the sun. This was a short day, so we arrived in the early afternoon at the refugio. A good reason to drink a pisco sour, the perfect drink on a sunny day as this one. As the refugio was fully booked, we rented a tent to sleep at this spot. That was the worse night ever in my life. I left my termarest in the city, as the agency told me there would be a matras in the tent. And yes, there was...of only 2 mm! I sweared that night, that I did not bring my termarest! ( And in the meantime I sent this termarest home together with other camp material, as I will not be camping anymore)
The tent we rented stood downhill on a rock...my hips were brused and I hardly slept...and the third day would be the heaviest one! Verdoeme toch!
Despite the lack of sleep, I did the walk of 9 hours on day three. The breakfast in these refugios start with porridge (havermoutpap), followed by scrambled eggs and toasted bread. MMMM In this refugio we could see the reflexion of the rising sun on the summits of Los Cuevos.
The first hour of the hike kept one going next to the lake. During the night a heavy wind came up and it was still there. We finally knew what the guy of Erretic Rock meant with "it is possible you have to lie down for a heavy squall (windstoot)". The wind started on the lake and rolled through the trees, so I could here it coming. I have posted a picture of the wind on the lake...it was a mystic view!
The hike went to the Valle del Francés, a wide valley between high summits and the glacier Cerro Paine Grande. The wind was so strong in the valley, we sat behind rocks to have lunch on the first viewpoint. Here I could see down the valley to the lake at one side and the summits on the other side. Amasing view!
As the route is a W, we had to come down again to reach the next refugio. It took us through the burned part of the park. It is really a pity. No one is aloud to have a fire in the park and still some idi(j)ood did and burned the trees! In this part, sunglasses helped to protect my eyes from the ashed, as the wind was still heavy. Here I had to go on my knees as the squalls were so strong.
So the third night we spent in the biggest refugio on the W, at the port of the park so food can be delivered easily...but this was the worse place to eat! Okay, it was the end of the season, but we paid for full board, not for the dinner again on a sandwich for lunch. The beds were good though. ;)
The refugio is in the middle of the burned area, but was protected. It is safe to drink water from streams in the park...but in this area you better not drink it.
The forth and fifth day, we could have done in one day. But it rained all morning on the fouth that I am glad we closed this trip in the sun on the fifth day with two handsome FLEMISH guys! haha
This hike went up to Refugio Grey, along Lago Grey to glacier Grey. This refugio was the most cosy one and as we bombed into these two guys, we drank red wine untill late in the evening. I kind of liked the Chilean owner of the refugio, the first handsome guy in this country! No offense, but Argentine men are very handsome and in Chili...only the Europeans are cute! :)))
So the last day, we hiked down to refugio Paine Grande again to take the boat to the entrance. The view on the boat was magnificant, but I did not have my camera with me...so I MUST come back.
I enjoyed Torres del Paine because of its nature: the sounds of babbling water, exotic birds, the wind in the trees, cracking of the ice...and I also enjoyed the moments shared with other hikers.
Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - Argentina
El Calafate
I arrived on a sunny day in el Calafate and booked immediatly a minitrekking on the glacier Perito Moreno. I was still feeling a bit cold and sick, so I took a good rest after a pizza in the sun. The next morning I had to get up very early, the bus of Hielo y Aventura would pick me up at 7:30. After 2 hours I arrived at the viewpoint at the north side of the glacier. Meanwhile I met Jenny from Holand on the bus and because of her I met Tally a few moments later at the viewpoint. We enjoyed the magnificant view of the massive glacier. While standing there, I heard the ice cracking as if there was a war inside the glacier! And if a part of the ice falls, it sounds like an airplane high in the sky. After taking photos of the incredible view the bus took us to the small port to cross the Argentine Lake, during this boat trip we had a view on the southern side of the glacier. After a lunch with a view on the lake, the mountains and the glacier, we went for a hike on the ice. Walking on ice with crampons asks a lot of energy, but it was worth the hike. I had a total different view of the glacier, in the beginning it felt scary to walk down on the ice, but the crampons make it easier. Soon I was hiking 'normal'! At the end of the day, we received a wiskey on the Perito Moreno Rocks :) Nice.
In the evening Tally, Jenny and I went out for dinner and decided to go to El Chaltén together. We booked the bus for the next morning.
El Chaltén
A 3 hours drive in a minibus brought us in the town with the most beautiful scenary I have seen. The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the north of the park rices up from kilometers before arriving the town. The town is the last one before crossing the border to Chile. You can take a bus to a boat in order to walk to the O'higgens lake in Chile, where you catch a ferry to Villa O'Higgens. I planned to do so, but due to a roadblock on the Carretera Austral no fuel nor food reaches that area. So I have to come back to Patagonia in a few years. ;)
So El Chaltén is so small that the internet depends on the amount of clouds and the mobile phone does work at all! You can find restaurants, hiking shop and a supermarket...the rest you get in El Calafate. The hostel Patagonia was very clean and cosy. All people staying in this town come here to hike, no party animals in this place! Although I enjoyed drinking beer at the microbrewery...
One of the hikes goes to the Fitz Roy and the nicest thing about this town is that you start your hike at your hostel. The hike goes up hill in a forest to arrive in a beautiful valley with delicious water! Since I tasted the water here I deslike the bottled water :)))
After enjoying a lunch in this valley surrounded by summits, the heavy part of the hike starts: 2 hours going steep upwards. The view was fantastic! But it was a long day of 9 hours hiking. Now I know why there is a camping in the valley... haha This was the viewpoint where you see the Fitz Roy summit with glaciers and three lakes.
I arrived on a sunny day in el Calafate and booked immediatly a minitrekking on the glacier Perito Moreno. I was still feeling a bit cold and sick, so I took a good rest after a pizza in the sun. The next morning I had to get up very early, the bus of Hielo y Aventura would pick me up at 7:30. After 2 hours I arrived at the viewpoint at the north side of the glacier. Meanwhile I met Jenny from Holand on the bus and because of her I met Tally a few moments later at the viewpoint. We enjoyed the magnificant view of the massive glacier. While standing there, I heard the ice cracking as if there was a war inside the glacier! And if a part of the ice falls, it sounds like an airplane high in the sky. After taking photos of the incredible view the bus took us to the small port to cross the Argentine Lake, during this boat trip we had a view on the southern side of the glacier. After a lunch with a view on the lake, the mountains and the glacier, we went for a hike on the ice. Walking on ice with crampons asks a lot of energy, but it was worth the hike. I had a total different view of the glacier, in the beginning it felt scary to walk down on the ice, but the crampons make it easier. Soon I was hiking 'normal'! At the end of the day, we received a wiskey on the Perito Moreno Rocks :) Nice.
In the evening Tally, Jenny and I went out for dinner and decided to go to El Chaltén together. We booked the bus for the next morning.
El Chaltén
A 3 hours drive in a minibus brought us in the town with the most beautiful scenary I have seen. The famous mountain Fitz Roy in the north of the park rices up from kilometers before arriving the town. The town is the last one before crossing the border to Chile. You can take a bus to a boat in order to walk to the O'higgens lake in Chile, where you catch a ferry to Villa O'Higgens. I planned to do so, but due to a roadblock on the Carretera Austral no fuel nor food reaches that area. So I have to come back to Patagonia in a few years. ;)
So El Chaltén is so small that the internet depends on the amount of clouds and the mobile phone does work at all! You can find restaurants, hiking shop and a supermarket...the rest you get in El Calafate. The hostel Patagonia was very clean and cosy. All people staying in this town come here to hike, no party animals in this place! Although I enjoyed drinking beer at the microbrewery...
One of the hikes goes to the Fitz Roy and the nicest thing about this town is that you start your hike at your hostel. The hike goes up hill in a forest to arrive in a beautiful valley with delicious water! Since I tasted the water here I deslike the bottled water :)))
After enjoying a lunch in this valley surrounded by summits, the heavy part of the hike starts: 2 hours going steep upwards. The view was fantastic! But it was a long day of 9 hours hiking. Now I know why there is a camping in the valley... haha This was the viewpoint where you see the Fitz Roy summit with glaciers and three lakes.
4 maart 2012
El Bolsón
After 3 days of sick in bed in my favorite hostel La Bolsa in Bariloche, I arrived in El Bolsón. I heard that this was a hippie town, so I had to stop here for sure. And yes, it is. I would have fit here perfectly if I still had my asymmetric haircut. :)
I saw a demonstration against the pollution of Patagonia´s nature by internation companies, who mine minerals in this area.
I found a cosy hostel called La casa del arbol, very close to the center. People here are very friendly. I sleep in the closet of Narnia (movie), which is the room in a closet for beds without sheets - read economic.
On the first morning I left early to take the bus of 8:30 to go to Cajon del Azul, which is a ravine on the Rio Azul...and this river is really blue. The bus looked like an old yellow American school bus, so funny. The journey took 45 minutes of which most of the part was on paved road...wiggle wiggle...
The bus dropped me at Warton, a place in the middle of a forest.
I started a 3 hours hike, going up and down next to the Rio Azul. I had to cross wooden bridges, very mobile and with many broken planks...as in the Indiana Jones movie! At a certain point I had to climb a ladder at each sides of a big rock hanging over the river (Escaleras). The view during this hike was again amazing, between the grey summits, I could see some gletsjers. Cool.
At the Cajon del Azul, the smallest ravine I ever saw, I crossed again a tricky bridge. There is a refugio close to this place, so I went up to have a hot meal. The refugio was actually a farm with horses, sheep and their own kitchen garden. It was situated in a small vally between two high mountain chains...and this farm was the only trace of human intervention on this valley...BEAUTIFUL!
An old man opened the wooden door and asked me if I wanted the or mate: mate of course!
The refugio was a bit dark, but cosy with sheep on the trunks used as chairs. I ordered half a pizza and enjoyed the break with mate. The pizza was seasoned with herbs of their garden. After my meal I took the same path back. I regret I did not take more days for this area, because from this refugio hikes go futher into the mountains. There are enough refugios on the way to make it a three day trip.
Just before I went up the last uphill to the bus stop, I crossed the final wooden bridge and got surrounded by chickens and turkeys, one turkey was really big and came straight to me. It scared me, so I kind of run away from it. Stupid I know, but this animal was way to cheeky. The animals were from the small bar at the riverside. I stopped there to eat one of my sandwiches and the chickens almost ate out of my hand...here chickens, birds, dogs...they all want your food!
On the second day, I wanted to visit Lago Puelo, but it was raining too hard, so I stayed in town, went to the feria and read my book. The next day, I will be on my way to El Calafate.
I saw a demonstration against the pollution of Patagonia´s nature by internation companies, who mine minerals in this area.
I found a cosy hostel called La casa del arbol, very close to the center. People here are very friendly. I sleep in the closet of Narnia (movie), which is the room in a closet for beds without sheets - read economic.
On the first morning I left early to take the bus of 8:30 to go to Cajon del Azul, which is a ravine on the Rio Azul...and this river is really blue. The bus looked like an old yellow American school bus, so funny. The journey took 45 minutes of which most of the part was on paved road...wiggle wiggle...
The bus dropped me at Warton, a place in the middle of a forest.
I started a 3 hours hike, going up and down next to the Rio Azul. I had to cross wooden bridges, very mobile and with many broken planks...as in the Indiana Jones movie! At a certain point I had to climb a ladder at each sides of a big rock hanging over the river (Escaleras). The view during this hike was again amazing, between the grey summits, I could see some gletsjers. Cool.
At the Cajon del Azul, the smallest ravine I ever saw, I crossed again a tricky bridge. There is a refugio close to this place, so I went up to have a hot meal. The refugio was actually a farm with horses, sheep and their own kitchen garden. It was situated in a small vally between two high mountain chains...and this farm was the only trace of human intervention on this valley...BEAUTIFUL!
An old man opened the wooden door and asked me if I wanted the or mate: mate of course!
The refugio was a bit dark, but cosy with sheep on the trunks used as chairs. I ordered half a pizza and enjoyed the break with mate. The pizza was seasoned with herbs of their garden. After my meal I took the same path back. I regret I did not take more days for this area, because from this refugio hikes go futher into the mountains. There are enough refugios on the way to make it a three day trip.
Just before I went up the last uphill to the bus stop, I crossed the final wooden bridge and got surrounded by chickens and turkeys, one turkey was really big and came straight to me. It scared me, so I kind of run away from it. Stupid I know, but this animal was way to cheeky. The animals were from the small bar at the riverside. I stopped there to eat one of my sandwiches and the chickens almost ate out of my hand...here chickens, birds, dogs...they all want your food!
On the second day, I wanted to visit Lago Puelo, but it was raining too hard, so I stayed in town, went to the feria and read my book. The next day, I will be on my way to El Calafate.
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