Torres del Paine - Chile

On Monday, I arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile. This is the village from which hikers enter the famous Torres del Paine. The visit to this national park in the climax of my stay in South-America, this is the reason I choose to come to Argentina and Chile (some of you may think of other reasons, but it isn't...all demons are banished ;). As soon as Jenny, Tally, Samara and I arrived, we went to the Erretic Rock - a hostel, to attend an information session about the park. I already knew, hikes can chose between the W-route of 4 or 5 days or the Q of 8 days. We came here to do the W, as this is the most beautiful part of the park. But I want to return to hike the Q. We booked and paid (cash - all is in cash) the refugios in advance at an agency on the day we arrived in Puerto Natales, but you can book it online weeks in advance.

So after a long day of sitting on the bus, booking the transfer to the park, the refugios and food in the park, buying cerealbars and chocolate...I packed my backpack with one pair of dry clothes, my sleeping back, a bottle of water, pain killers for my achilles and my camera. I even slept bad that night, I was so excited!

The shuttle picked us up at the hostel and after a two drive, we arrived at the administration of the park. It is not a cheap trip, a full bord night (dinner + bed + shower + breakfast + lunchbox) in a refugio costs around 50 euro, the shuttle to the back around 22 euro and the entrance 23 euro. At the administration, each visitor has to fill out a paper with his personal details and sign the rules. I assume this park is holy for Chili ;) But I understand why!!! It is SO beautiful!!! The second hours of the journey on the bus is already through the park and I saw a lot of Guanacos, these lamas look a bit silly (dwaas) standing still in the grass.

So it was Tuesday, day one in Torres del Paine and we started our hike around 11:00 at Refugio los Torres. The hike to refugio Chileno took 2 hours uphill, ending in a narrow and deep valley of Rio Ascencio. We dropped our big backpacks at the refugio and we up to los Torres, another 2 hours uphill. It is amasing how the scenery changes in only 2 hours from green forest in a black stoned valley into a white stoned summit with glaciers and a lake! But that how it is in the mountains, behind every curve is another view and behind every hill is another one ;)
I ended the day with a hot shower and a healty meal and a glass of red wine.

Day two was easy. We left the valley and hiked all day along Lago Nordenskjöld to Refugio Los Cuevos. It was a very sunny day, no wind...just perfect for a lunch a the lake enjoying the view and the sun. This was a short day, so we arrived in the early afternoon at the refugio. A good reason to drink a pisco sour, the perfect drink on a sunny day as this one. As the refugio was fully booked, we rented a tent to sleep at this spot. That was the worse night ever in my life. I left my termarest in the city, as the agency told me there would be a matras in the tent. And yes, there was...of only 2 mm! I sweared that night, that I did not bring my termarest! ( And in the meantime I sent this termarest home together with other camp material, as I will not be camping anymore)
The tent we rented stood downhill on a rock...my hips were brused and I hardly slept...and the third day would be the heaviest one! Verdoeme toch!

Despite the lack of sleep, I did the walk of 9 hours on day three. The breakfast in these refugios start with porridge (havermoutpap), followed by scrambled eggs and toasted bread. MMMM In this refugio we could see the reflexion of the rising sun on the summits of Los Cuevos.
The first hour of the hike kept one going next to the lake. During the night a heavy wind came up and it was still there. We finally knew what the guy of Erretic Rock meant with "it is possible you have to lie down for a heavy squall (windstoot)". The wind started on the lake and rolled through the trees, so I could here it coming. I have posted a picture of the wind on the lake...it was a mystic view!

The hike went to the Valle del Francés, a wide valley between high summits and the glacier Cerro Paine Grande. The wind was so strong in the valley, we sat behind rocks to have lunch on the first viewpoint. Here I could see down the valley to the lake at one side and the summits on the other side. Amasing view!
As the route is a W, we had to come down again to reach the next refugio. It took us through the burned part of the park. It is really a pity. No one is aloud to have a fire in the park and still some idi(j)ood did and burned the trees! In this part, sunglasses helped to protect my eyes from the ashed, as the wind was still heavy. Here I had to go on my knees as the squalls were so strong.

So the third night we spent in the biggest refugio on the W, at the port of the park so food can be delivered easily...but this was the worse place to eat! Okay, it was the end of the season, but we paid for full board, not for the dinner again on a sandwich for lunch. The beds were good though. ;)
The refugio is in the middle of the burned area, but was protected. It is safe to drink water from streams in the park...but in this area you better not drink it.

The forth and fifth day, we could have done in one day. But it rained all morning on the fouth that I am glad we closed this trip in the sun on the fifth day with two handsome FLEMISH guys! haha
This hike went up to Refugio Grey, along Lago Grey to glacier Grey. This refugio was the most cosy one and as we bombed into these two guys, we drank red wine untill late in the evening. I kind of liked the Chilean owner of the refugio, the first handsome guy in this country! No offense, but Argentine men are very handsome and in Chili...only the Europeans are cute! :)))

So the last day, we hiked down to refugio Paine Grande again to take the boat to the entrance. The view on the boat was magnificant, but I did not have my camera with me...so I MUST come back.

I enjoyed Torres del Paine because of its nature: the sounds of babbling water, exotic birds, the wind in the trees, cracking of the ice...and I also enjoyed the moments shared with other hikers.